Alone in Ogura

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Location: Colchester, Essex, United Kingdom

Thursday, December 22, 2005

I'm Leeeeeaving, Ooooooooon a Jet Plaaaaane....

So finally, after weeks of shivering, sneezing, coughing and wheezing, tomorrow I fly to the sunny environs of Sri Lanka, there to hopefully see and discover lots of marvelous things, in between sunning myself on the beach, kicking back and taking a break from it all. I may well be swapping my cold symptoms for a ferocious sunburn, but at this stage frankly I don’t care.

My only concern with the trip on the whole is the response I’ve had from various people when I’ve told them where I’m going, often something along the lines of “Oh, to do aid work?” Which instantly makes me feel just a tad selfish and guilty, as I mumble my reply of “Well, no, just to kind of…you know…have a holiday really…” The places we’re going to visit, as far as I’m aware, largely escaped the worst of the damage inflicted last year, but with all the moving around we’re going to be doing (seven different locations over two and a bit weeks at the last count), it’s probably inevitable that we’re going to come across a visible reminder of what happened, never mind witnessing the general mood of the population in the run up to the first anniversary of the tsunami disaster.

Either way, we shall see for ourselves I’m sure, take it as it comes, enjoy ourselves and do our best to make the most of what Sri Lanka has to offer. Happy holidays everyone, until January…

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

Bernard Cribbins, It's Cold - and God Knows I'm Suffering

I am not happy.

I am the very opposite of happy - as I attempt to write, my eyes are streaming and my nose is doing likewise. Today I am at my special needs school where, as my services were not required in any class all morning, I have been slowly contracting a cold in the teacher's large staff room.

It is not heated. It is not insulated. It is freezing. It is the only staff room at any of my schools which is not heated, and I have been confined here for hours. This makes me angry. This also makes me sneeze, sniff and cough a great deal. My pack of Japanese tissues, designed to instantly dissolve upon contact with any kind of moisture, do not help very much either.

The bathroom next door has no hot tap and no towel to dry one's hands after washing them. It is, however, home to the only source of warmth at my disposal, namely the heated toilet seat, to which I have retreated several times in sheer desperation at feeling my buttocks go numb.

I taught one class in the afternoon - more song based stuff for the high schoolers where I was required to play guitar but was barely able to because of my sneezing. I may have passed my cold on to the students.

There is now just over an hour to go. I am really feeling quite ill. The staff around me are wearing ski jackets and woolly hats. This is not good. This is absurd. They say to me Samui desu, ne? - cold, isn't it? "No shit, Sherlock." say I. I'm not sure they understand.

I think I'm slowly losing the will to live. One hour, four minutes to go and counting...

Thursday, December 08, 2005

Do You Know Who Jesus Is?





Had one of those interesting cultural realisations at school today. As part of an afternoon High School correspondence class, I'd prepared a short Christmas quiz consisting of various multiple choice questions, the idea being to then use these as a springboard for class discussion and a chance for me to educate my Japanese charges in the strangely foreign customs of the traditional Christian Christmas. Due the peculiar nature of my correspondence shifts at Kinokawa High School, where student class sizes are never known before the day itself, there was only one student in attendance - no matter, at least she wasn't going to be able to nod off and completely ignore me.

As it was, she seemed pretty engaged throughout, and seemed particularly interested in the photos I showed her of my parents celebrating their Christmas in the UK last year. The interesting part for me came during the quiz where, in answer the question "In which country was Jesus born?" with the options of 'America', 'England' and 'Israel', it took this girl in her late teens two attempts to get the correct answer. Hmm.

Now, we all know that the Roman Empire and the Crusades never quite made it this far, that as a consequence Christianity is not exactly big in Japan, and that the finer points of the Nativity Story are thus not drilled into young minds during their pre-school years as they are where I'm from. Even so, seeing such a clear demonstration of this rather took me aback - having attended a Catholic School myself, I was almost shocked at the student's complete lack of knowledge as to who Jesus was at all, leaving me to try and explain his significance to her in meaningful terms in the space of a few minutes. However, as an atheist I was also delighted at her complete ignorance of 'the Son of our Lord'.

Just think - a society where the insidious idea of Original Sin never took hold, where the Immaculate Conception is but a foreign theological curiosity, where the Protestant Work Ethic never got off the ground and where no zealous septugenarians are given the autocratic right to dictate the sex lives and practices of their followers. Alright, so I'm just venting my ani-religious spleen here and yes, it's not as if Japan is a utopia without any inherent forms of repression and hypocrisy to rival those above, but really - to witness Christmas in a country where all that is celebrated at this time of year by the population at large is rampant consumerism and the none-more-secular image of Santa Claus is to see cultural realativism at its finest. Which is why the large and well-organised networks of Jehova's Witnesses, Mormons and other Christian missionary intiatives out here annoy me so much, but I'll save that rant for another time.

You want an example of how commercially vacuous Christmas in Japan really is? KFC (yes, those purveyors of "finger lickin' good" bits of reprocessed meat that could conceivably be described as chicken following rigorous analysis in a petri dish) have shrewdly managed to position themselves here as the 'go to' place for all your Christmas dinner needs if you and your Japanese family fancy making like those crazy Americans and having a chicken feast on December 25th. As a result, branches nationwide are often booked up with parties well ahead of mid December. Madness. A life-sized replica of Colonel Sanders dressed in Santa's traditional finery will even greet you as you enter, though as I haven't been able to snap the one in Wakayama-Shi yet. Instead, enjoy this one dressed as a Samurai courtesy of someone else's blog.

Either way, I'll be enjoying the delights of Sri Lanka this festive season so it doesn't make any difference to me. Now, what were you saying about that guy again? Fed a crowd of thousands with several fish and a couple of loaves of bread you say? Turned water into wine and came back from the dead? Get outta here...

Monday, December 05, 2005

Shop Til You...Break Down In The Street, Helplessly Bawling Your Eyes Out at the Utter Futility Of It All.



With the exception of purchases related to books, records, musical instruments and computer equipment, I am terrible at shopping. There's something about the intimidating size of department stores, the frankly terrifying approaches of members of staff and the sheer volume of people with bulging carrier bags who seem to know exactly what they're doing that just reduces me to a gibbering wreck.

Despite this dreadful affliction, Saturday found me braving the packed streets of Osaka's Umeda district in a desperate attempt to make some kind of headway on my Christmas Shopping. Having wasted far too much time browsing reading matter in Hankyu Station's 'Books Kinokunya' store, and even more time coveting the sundry delights on offer in Osaka's premier guitar shop chain, I finally managed to get my act together (sort of) and bought some trinkets for the folks back home. I'd like to say what they were, but of course the intended recipients may well be reading this, so I'd best not say. Suffice it to say, I at least made a start.

My main accomplishment was, however, a purchase made on behalf of yours truly in the form of a ludicrously complicated backpack, complete with all manner of mysterious straps and buckles the purposes of which I can never hope to fathom, ahead of my Christmas Sri Lanka expedition. The kind gent who served me spoke marvellous English and was extremely adept at parting me from more of my money than I'd intended. Whatever, at least I'm now prepared, and all being well my purchase should at least serve me reasonably well on any adventures I may have in the years to come.

Despite its formidable size, baffling layout and impossible-to-navigate system of interconnected department stores, shopping arcades, train stations and passageways, Umeda does at least offer some form of respite in the shape of its highly diverting street entertainment. Several elevated pedestrian crossings play host to the cream of Osaka's busking talent, which I'm always keen to observe being as I'm occasionally in the business of playing songs in public spaces myself. To wit, the band I made a point of watching offered a set of mainly forgettable J-Pop by numbers, albeit featuring an heroically be-shaded bassist who appeared to be partying as though it were 1982. Max Headroom would have been proud, I'm sure...

Public Speaking, Positive Nose Contact and Manga Idiot Boy

Sorry, no pictures. Just lots of words.

Well now, I've had me quite an eventful week, which makes a change. First big thing of note was the Wakayama JET midterm conference on Monday and Tuesday in Wakayama City's 'Big Ai' building (it's honestly called that - you think that's daft, the stadium directly opposite goes by the name of 'Big Whale'. Because, duh, it looks like a whale). This is the annual shindig at which every JET in Wakayama Prefecture assembles as one over two days to attend lectures, partipate in workshops, share ideas and methods in relation to teaching, make new friends, rediscover old ones and get mind-numbingly pissed in the evening. This year was a little different for me and many other second and third years however, as I was actually giving a presentation entitled 'Using Audio-Visual Technologies in the Classroom'. Snappy title, yes?

To my annoyance, I wasn't actually scheduled until the last workshop on the second day, meaning I had to behave myself on Monday night with just a few drinks and a pleasant meal at a pizzeria, rather than get recklessly smashed, stay out all hours and wake up the following morning in a love hotel. I won't mention any names...Anyway, the Monday's lectures and workshops were pleasant enough, frustrating though it was to be shepherded to individually pre-designated talks, rather than being allowed the freedom to go to the ones we actually wanted to see, as was the case last year. Hence the reason I missed the reportedly excellent ones delivered by Noel and Sean on classroom discipline and Kansai regional dialect respectively. The former I could have really done with seeing, considering what happened later in the week, but I’ll get to that in a bit…

For now, Tuesday seemed to drag somewhat, which is unsurprising considering how appallingly nervous I was. Granted, I’ve spent most of the past year and a bit standing in front of roomfuls of (young) people who expect me to somehow educate them but crucially, the people in question are non-English speakers. I was going to be doing this thing in front of a roomful of Japanese English teachers and fellow JETs. They were professionals and they would be able to smell blood. Having painstakingly set up everything on my battered laptop beforehand so as to wow the crowd with my whiz-bang AV prowess and 60 laboriously prepared bulky handouts, when the time came I was ready to begin.

I was shit.

My mouth went dry the second I stood up and having forgotten to acquire a bottle of water during the break for lunch, it stayed that way. My delivery was rambling, incoherent and shambolic, delivered at a snail’s pace because of comments made by the moderator earlier on about how the Japanese teachers had had some difficulty with the speech speed of some of the other JETs presentations. Unfortunately, I went too far the other way and spoke patronisingly as if to a class of pre-schoolers while using completely inappropriate words such as ‘impeccable’, ‘geek credentials’ and delivering some God-awful ad-libbed jokes that fell flatter than a hedgehog clamped in a vice thrown from an 18th storey window.

Thankfully, the computer decided to behave itself, aside from launching the swirly, psychedelic screensaver I’d installed while still plugged in to the projector, momentarily distracting the audience completely and painfully drawing attention to my general ineptitude. Everything else worked fine – my recording of the Wakayama High students performing the voicemail activity, the painfully embarrassing movie I made with my after school English Club imploring the year’s new intake to sign up and the ambitious PowerPoint presentation of my family, which featured several video clips. The latter seemed to go down especially well, with my father’s brief filmed rendition of the opening bars of Bach’s Toccata and Fugue in D Minor even getting a mention from the generous, unfailingly efficient Canadian JET and conference organiser Genevieve during her closing ceremony speech after the whole sorry ordeal was over. By all accounts, my laptop gave a far better presentation than I did, though some people were good enough to say some very nice words to me after the event, which I thank them for. I then proceeded to get slightly drunk in the Irohanihoheto (nightmare to order a cab from, or did I make that joke already)? bar next to JR Wakayama station and headed, to my enormous relief, homewards.

To Wednesday then, and a day at my designated special needs school, Kii Cosmos. In a dramatic break with tradition, I’m actually going to indulge in a spot of ‘own trumpet blowing’ by mentioning the kid whose name I can’t remember (which alone probably invalidates all of what follows and helps put my Mother Theresa rating at around 0.02) that I helped during a morning cooking class. Now, the kid in question (who shall henceforth be referred to as Ryu because I have to call him something and it’s the only Japanese name I can ever remember, thanks Streetfighter 2), like many at Kii Cosmos, suffers from a severe mental disability that leaves him unable to form sentences and perform basic motor functions. I have no idea as to what his condition is, as very little English is spoken by Kii Cosmos staff.

Classes at Kii Cosmos are usually composed of three to five students, twelve at the most, but in this instance only one, owing to others being absent or undergoing essential physiotherapy. The task was to make a ‘sweet potato cake’ composed of mashed sweet potato, sugar and milk, the combination of which is then placed into an oven and cooked. My job was to sit next to Ryu, talk to him and give him words of encouragement as best I could while the teacher mixed the ingredients into a plastic bag, making it easier for Ryu to have a go at mixing them himself. Oh yeah, and his mum also happened to be in school that day and was at that precise moment observing our ‘class’.

This, I have to say, terrified me because I’m not qualified in any way, whatsoever, to teach special needs education. I’ve generally taken my stints at Kii Cosmos as they come, adapting to whatever’s asked of me as best I can, which generally consists of nothing more taxing than playing the odd game, teaching some very basic English and generally being there for the students’ amusement and entertainment. Still, I had to just get on with things really and so it was that Ryu and myself ground up the mixture in the bag, with me placing his fingers in the right place to get him started and making some extremely tenuous ‘squeeze as hard as you can’-type gestures at him. That done, the teacher snipped a small hole into the bag, through which was squeezed the mixture, before being placed in little foil cake cups.

While this was going on, I busied myself cleaning Ryu’s clothes and hands of cake mix and drool with some wet wipes as his mum looked on. My words of encouragement consisted mainly of ‘ooh, “ere we go, yeah, mash that up, good stuff, there you go look, that’s going to be good once it’s out the oven" and somesuch. Alright, so he wouldn’t have understood a word. The adults in the room didn’t understand a word, but for a kid who seems unable to speak any Japanese, never mind English, it seemed the only right thing for me to do. He probably got the general gist one way or the other. At one point he actually turned to face me directly and put his finger momentarily on my nose before turning back to the middle distance as the teacher and myself attempted to keep him enthused.

The lesson over, it was half an hour before I returned to the same room for lunch, because one of the girls in the homeroom class held in the same place (it’s kind of like the form room/registration setup in British secondary schools) insists on talking to me over lunch if she ever gets the chance. While there, I got to have a few words with the teacher from before, who told me that Ryu’s mother was highly impressed with the way I’d been so careful, gentle and patient with him, and that the fact that Ryu had tried to touch my nose was very telling. According to her, he only does that with people he trusts, and that overall, she hoped I’d be a teacher at Kii Cosmos for the foreseeable future because I was very good at what I did. Blimey, now that’s what I call winging it.

Seriously though, it was really nice to hear that – all I need to do now is find out what Ryu’s name actually is and I might be able to start living up to his mother’s seemingly high estimation of me…

From the sublime to the ridculous then, the following day I was at my regular Thursday high school for disadvantaged kids who never completed their mandatory Junior High School education for a variety of reasons – usually because of instability within their family, they have some form of behavioral disorder or some other disability or circumstance that prevented them from completing it. It goes without saying that some of the kids that go there can be tough going at the best of times, though in my time here so far I’ve found that though it hasn’t been easy, I’ve been able to make a decent fist of teaching English to classes there that possess little ability and even less interest in the subject.

So, a day much like the many I’ve had there began with a class of first years, who rather confusingly are all somewhere between 15 and 19, containing around 14 students. The subject was, I seem to recall, the use of the word ‘to’ in questions such as ‘What do you want to be when you’re older?’

Armed with photocopied handouts of an activity for the students to do, I handed them out to everyone but got a rather negative reaction from the cluster of tables at the back of the classroom around which were seated four 16-17 year old-lads, who are generally quite cheeky and reluctant to learn but who’d never given me too many problems in the past. As soon as I handed the sheet to one of them, he didn’t look at it at all, but simply slid it straight into the space under the desk where the textbooks and worksheets for his other classes were kept and carried on fiddling with his mobile.

A brief bit of background here – like many others, before I arrived I naively assumed that teaching Japanese kids would be about the best introduction to the world of teaching, my mind filled as it was with the western stereotype of studious kids who are forced to work obscenely hard and adhere to class hours far longer than those of their western counterparts. They might be shy, I supposed, but at least they’d be hard workers and obedient. Well, this is certainly the case at some of Japan’s more prestigious centers of learning, but not at the places I, and many other JETs have been assigned to.

Firstly, the Japanese system of teaching assumes that so long as any one student is not being so disruptive as to bring the entire class to standstill, they will not be chastised by the teacher for sleeping in class, reading unrelated material (usually manga comic books), fiddling with mobiles or any other kind of distraction. The received wisdom out here seems to be, if a student wants to waste his or her time in class then that’s up to them. That there’s no point stopping the whole class in order to discipline a student who otherwise wouldn’t be bothering the others. This runs directly counter to my own experiences of the classroom during my schooldays and, I would venture, to most classroom systems throughout the world.

Therefore, I’ve had to develop an extremely high patience threshold when it comes to teaching Japanese kids. Loud talking can occasionally be a real annoyance, but I can usually count on the ever present Japanese teacher of English to help me put a stop to that. I’ve nevertheless had to get increasingly used to addressing one half of a class while the other indulges all manner of irrelevant activity, sometimes even going so far as to do homework for other subjects while I’m trying to teach them. My general way of coping thus far has been to simply stand near any offending students while talking, or else throw questions at them if they’re not paying attention. They all know that they ought to be concentrating, and if they’re confronted with it, usually they’ll stop and do what I’ve set them.

In this particular instance with the lad and the mobile though, I couldn’t help but take slight offence at his apparent outright refusal to even acknowledge my existence. Basically, I objected to the fact that this kid was seriously taking the piss. One of his friends also happened to fiddling with his mobile while another seemed engrossed in his tales of manga.

So I reached under his desk, withdrew the sheet again, and in my patented hybrid mix of Japanese and English, injected with enough subtle menace to make myself sound serious without having to resort to shouting, I carefully told him that there was only 15 minutes or so of the class left, that he could play with his mobile as much as he wanted afterwards, but that for now we were going to be studying English. With the traditional chastising teacher’s sign off of do I make myself clear?, I was done. Then what happened? The little bastard sarcastically said ‘yes sir’ and made a Nazi salute. If my blood hadn’t been boiling before, it sure as hell was now.

Fighting the urge to yell at the kid, to try and explain that half my family was German, that I’ve had to endure idiots who think that doing Nazi salutes in my direction is really funny since I was a child, and that he should either behave or get the f**k out of my classroom, I just glared at him, went back to the front and calmly carried on what I was doing for the benefit of the other 10 or so students in the room who were looking attentively at me and the work in front of them, pens in hand.

So, once class was done and my colleague and I were making our way back to the staff room, she was quite effusive in her apologies – that “The students do not like English” and that some of them are “very difficult” or have “very low ability”. Well, I’ve known all of that since I first started working there, and just briefly explained to her that what I objected to was a small number of students who clearly didn’t care at all, ruining it for the rest of the students who did. Mobile-addict, Manga idiot boy and the other kid had been talking together loudly enough, even before the Nazi business, to put me off and make teaching the rest of the class that little bit harder.

I had two further classes that day with a different teacher, who happened to be the head of the school’s English department. Before going to class, he mentioned to me something that the teacher I’d had the class with earlier had said. Apparently, she was of the opinion that it was perhaps best for me not to teach that class with her again as my approach was making some students reluctant to come to class at all. Well, this was certainly news to me – I can only guess that that either meant there were less students there that day than were supposed to be, or else that she was afraid that the kids I’d told off wouldn’t come to class again. Oh yeah, and that I hadn’t done anything wrong. That really threw me.

Firstly, obviously I had done something wrong, or else she wouldn’t have requested I don’t teach with her again. Secondly, was she proposing that because the kids took offence at me telling them off for doing something they shouldn’t have been, and may consequently be reluctant to come the following week, the rest of the class would have to make do without a native speaker in class, so the miscreants would be able to sit there and disrupt the class with impunity? Something didn’t quite add up.

As it was, my other classes that morning went perfectly well, even the second containing a particularly volatile 19-year-old appropriately called Aso. As has always been the case in the past, the students were initially slow to settle down and reluctant to get started, but after some prompting from me and the teacher, did eventually make a stab at the pre-prepared task.

I had a brief chat with the female teacher later that afternoon before she left school – I told her what I’d heard from the Department Head and explained that I would actually like to continue teaching with her, for the benefit of the majority of students who wanted to learn. I left it by saying that ultimately, it was up to her whether I went to that class or not, and suggested she think over what I’d said and tell me what action she wanted to take when I came to the school again the following week. She seemed happy with that, apologized again and reiterated the “students are difficult” line again. Well, yes, they are, but I don’t believe in writing them off as hopeless cases. Does she?

Sorry, rant over. It’s just the first time anything like this has actually happened to me since arriving in Japan and frankly, it smarts a tad.

Friday, December 02, 2005

The Cold Draws In...


...well, it's been here for a while now, really. Yep, the days of sweating buckets without moving a muscle seem to be but a distant memory as those of us in Japan break out the blankets, crank up the heaters and try to get used to the vision of our breath condensing in midair indoors when we get out of bed in the morning.

It's not as if winter here is even that cold, at least not in the Kansai region - certainly not when I compare it to what's been going on in the UK lately. The problem is, with the buildings. With little more than paper protecting one from the elements, you're almost no better off outside than in. Much as I appreciate that I'm less likely to be killed by substantial pieces of masonry falling on my head during an earthquake as a result of this, what I don't appreciate at all is the hellish 7am dash to the bathroom across my bitterly cold kitchen.

My only sources of heat are my
three trusty portable electric heaters. Thing is, they take a while to get going and for safety reasons, cannot be left on all night. What happens then? I get a cold. While sleeping. So far, this has led to me having to take an afternoon off work (after snuffling my way through the marking of the students' oral English exams, trooper that I am) and spending one of the most depressing weekends I can remember, bedridden and reading the latest H*rry P*tter (I needed something relatively undemanding to read through my facial gauze of mucus). If you read this Sarah, I'm not being snooty - cheers for lending it to me, I appreciate it. Honest.

Anyway, what I did find interesting about securing the first sick leave I've taken since arriving in Japan, was how the other teachers seemed so concerned about how I ought to see a doctor. For a common cold? No, it can be ably treated with plenty of imported Lemsip (cheers mum) and a great deal of sleep, preferably not in temperatures approximating those of a household fridge. I swear, I was this close to answering their advice with "Well, unless he or she is going to come round my flat to install central heating and cavity wall insulation, I can't really see how that would help me." Grrr....

The only region of Japan that even thinks of including double-glazing on most of its houses is sub-zero Hokkaido island, way up north, which is fair enough. They get a whole ton of snow every year, so to expect its citizens to live in residences such as mine would be almost tantamount to human rights abuse. The people I feel really sorry for are those with larger apartments that are harder to heat (the only time of year I'm not otherwise bitterly jealous of them) and those poor sods who live at the very northern tip of Honshu island. No government-sanctioned housing insulation for them, just ice forming in their bathrooms, which I’ve genuinely heard happen to some JETs up there. Believe me, you have my utmost sympathies…


Right, enough bitching about the weather. I never stop whinging about the summer, never stop complaining about winter, mutter grumble, mrmrmrmhrr...